23/2
It was 15.00 when we left the house sit in Greenwood that we’ve been at for the last week and a bit and walked down to the bus stop, the bus took us to Warwick station, into Perth on the train and out to the airport. If we’d got it right and gone to Airport Central it would have cost me nothing, but we got off at Redcliffe and got the bus to T3 which we found was only for Qantas international, so we got the shuttle bus around to T1, sat around on the seats until it was time to check in and we were soon in the lounge waiting to board the plane an Emirates A380. The flight left on time and we spent 9hrs getting to Dubai
24.2
We arrived in Dubai on time after a pleasant flight, we had a vacant seat next to us so one of us could sort of lie down, so we both got some sleep, the meals were all pretty good. We had a 2hr wait on the transfer which was in a different terminal, we arrived in terminal A and left from terminal C, again we found a free shuttle bus. Disappointingly there was no viewing area on the outside of the building, so we had look at the Burj Kahlifa in the distance with a few Rock Doves and crows around the terminal. The flight left at 8.05 for a 19hr flight in a Boeing 777 to Buenos Aires that included a stop at Rio De Janiero. Strangely we were left on the plane for 2hrs whilst the poor cleaners had to clean the plane around us. We arrived at 22.30, it took a while to get through customs but we found the lady from Imagine Holidays and we were all soon on the bus heading for the Savoy Hotel in the city. It was here that the bombshell was thrown at 11 of the 34 of us. We were supposed to have got a visa for Chile. Bev had contacted the Chilean consulate in Perth and they had advised us that because we were only there for a few hours we didn’t need a visa. When we got to the hotel after the laboriously slow check in we got to our room and rang the emergency line that we had for Imagine Holidays. They were aware of the problem and are attempting to do something about it, but it’s now the weekend, so I don’t like our chances. It was 00.30 when we finally turned out the lights.
25/2
I had a quick look at a nearby park not long after sun up, the first bird was a Rock Dove followed by House Sparrow, both introduced species. A loud calling bird on top of a statue turned out to be a Juvenile Haris’s Hawk my first new bird for the trip. In the park were Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Picazuro Pigeon quickly followed by Rufous Hornero, both common city birds here and also some Cattle Tyrants. Went back for breaky then we both walked down to the Ecological park down by the bay and slowly walked the circuit gradually adding new birds all day. In the main lake by the esplanade we got Rosy-billed Pochard the most common duck by far mainly because they come to the wall of the esplanade where people feed them. There were a number of Limpkins feeding out in the open feeding on the weed covered lake. Next were some Common Starlings another introduced species. There were a few Wattled Jacanas out on the weeds. We then found the bush where Southern Screamers were roosting and nearby some Silver Teal, White-tufted Grebe and Southern Lapwing. A Crested Caracara came zooming by and roosting in some trees were some Monk Parakeets another introduced species. The Red-gartered Coot and Common Gallinule were easy to find, a pair of Brazilian Teal roosting in the grass was harder to ID. The martins zooming around were difficult to get a good enough look at until we found some perched in a tree and sorted them out as Brown-chested. A lone Muscovy Duck and a flock of Nanday Parakeets were two more introduced species. Lake Duck was next to be found and a White-rumped Swallow perched in a tree was easy to ID. A lone Pied-billed Grebe was next along with a lone Coscoroba Swan, raiding a bin was a Greyish Baywing, nearby were Yellow-billed Cardinal and Great Kiskadee. We then crossed into the park and took the perimiter track that runs around the coast. A channel runs beside the track where we got a Rufescent Tiger Heron. Later we saw small flocks of Greyish Baywings in the trees and feeding in small flocks on the ground. There was a large burnt area on the inside of the perimiter track where we got some Harris’s Hawks, then we started to see a few trees in flower, I hoped and I hoped and there they were, some beautiful little Guilded Humingbirds, they were chasing each other in and around the tree, my first look at a hummingbird, occasionally one would hover in front of a flower, there were none of the spectacular males, all females and juveniles as far as I could tell. We came across an all black bird vocalizing in a tree by the track, I never really got a good look at it but later study revealed that it was a White-lined Tanager. Then we got several good looks at Solitary Flycatchers as they fed, one was in company with a Tropical Kingbird, I also got a half decent look at a Masked Gnatcatcher and Small-billed Elaenia. An American Kestrel did a slow fly-by for us. The seashore was disappointing with no birds on the shore for the entire 5km stretch, off in the bay were some Neotropic Cormorants and Great Egrets flying by. Then a pair of Bare-faced Ibis flew by overhead. On the eastern edge of the reserve is an inlet where we got Snowy Egret, Cocoi Heron and Wood Stork, but no waders on the small mud flat. Back at the main lake we added White-winged Coot and Black-headed Duck . We wandered slowly to the western end where we added White-faced Whistling Duck and Striated Heron. The last bird for the day was a Red-crested Cardinal. We left in time to get back well before dark as there is a lot of homelessness here, with a fair amount of criminal behaviour which makes it unadvisable to be out and about after dark. The weather had been sunny all day, away from the bay it was quite hot and sticky but there was a nice cool breeze coming off the bay when we were near it. We went to La American for dinner which is only a few hundred metres from the hotel and had empaladas and a huge sundae that we shared. As I suspected no word from Imagine Holidays.
26/2
We were up at dawn and down to the ecological park early and were rewarded by a brief view of a Plumbeous Rail. Yesterday we couldn’t find a single Rufous-bellied Thrush, today they were everywhere, next we had to use the scope to ID a Ringed Teal roosting by the water’s edge. We then walked along the esplanade and found a White-faced Ibis feeding in the long grasses. The gates into the sanctuary open at 8am, we were later than I’d hoped going through to have a look at the duck ponds where we added Black-necked Swan. From the track that bisects the duck ponds from the main lake we spotted a Spot-flanked Gallinule and had a good look at him through the scope as he worked the edge of one of the islands in the main lake. It was now time to head back, but on the way out we managed views of Golden-billed Saltator and Saffron Finch in the trees by the visitor centre and by the roadside feeding on a roadside verge we got a small family of Shiny Cowbirds. We were not all that far from the hotel when we were both splattered with what turned out to be a flour based bomb. Very soon after that a guy turned up with a tissue and attempted to try and dab the paste, we told him we were near our hotel and needed no help, but he persisted first with Bev then with me, and then as I watched him try and dab at me I noted his hand attempt to get into my pocket, but he was too slow and I told him to F@#$ off which he did so having now been discovered. He got nothing from us thankfully. After I reported the incident and changed our white daubed clothing we had our late breakfast and got ready to head off to the ship. It was 13.30 when we boarded our bus and headed down to the port. The expected thing happened though and we were refused boarding because we had no visa for Chile. There are about 220 of us in this situation, a lot of very unhappy and angry Aussies. Now I’m going to bring a touch of reality here. Whilst we were standing around with frustrated looks on our faces a young woman with a long-handled brush and pan was making her way around the area, cleaning up, I moved out of her way as she went by me so she could clean behind me, she looked up at me and smiled. It was then that I saw the whole of the right hand side of her face was disfigured. It could have been a burn but it looked suspiciously like an acid attack. We’ve had our holiday disrupted and rightfully so we aren’t happy. But this poor woman has had the whole of her life wrecked in a moment, she will probably never marry, and is most likely estranged from her family. At least though she has a job. On our way from the hotel to the wetlands we pass a homeless camp, several families sleeping on the side of the road in humpies, they have nothing. Apparently there is some sort of tit for tat reprisals happening between Australia and Chile and as usual its the ordinary public that pay the price. Our intitial anger was that neither Imagine Holidays or Norwegian Cruise lines had bothered to inform us of the change in visa requiements even though they both knew. Norwegian just told us to bugger off. Imagine however have done a good job of rescuing what they can out of the situation arranging hotel stays and we believe flights down to Ushuaia where we should be able to board the ship since it will have passed the port of Punta Arenas in Chile. So we were bussed back to the Savoy hotel at about 16.30 where we eventually got our room which is bigger than the one we left this morning, we headed out early for dinner since we had missed lunch across the road to the Continental where we both had a rather plain but good sized hamburger with excellent chips and some organic fruit juice for about A$29.
27/2
Imagine came good with their promise to look after us with a lady turning up to organize flights to Ushuaia which unfortunately we have to pay for, but the hotel stays and transfers have been booked for free apparently NCL have also come to the party paying for the Ushuaia hotel, so we now have a few days of leisure in Buenos Aires, not as exciting as new ports would be, but at least there is some sort of salvage of the trip.
28.2
We returned to the Ecological park today after breakfast which doesn’t start until 8am so we were quite late. Nevertheless as we slowly strolled around we added new species, The first was some Grey-breasted Martins around a building. We had a look at the inlet but the tide was in and we saw nothing new. We found the female first and were umming and ahing about what it could be when the male White-winged Becard turned up which made it easy. Then we found a group of Hooded Siskins feeding in a tree, there were several stages from all yellow to one with a jet black hood. The Duck pond added Red-gartered Coot with thanks to a local bird guide who showed us how to ID them and had a good look at a few through the scope, he checked out my website there and then and corrected a few mistakes I’d made, what a rank beginner I am! One of the birds I’d hoped to find was a wood rail and he indicated where we could find some. I had ducked into the scrub to try and find some small birds that turned out to be Saffron Finches when we saw a rail searching through the scrub, it turned out to be the Grey-necked Wood Rail, Woohoo! Back on the esplanade we thought we’d got a juvenile Rufous-collared Finch but weren’t certain enough then an adult turned up which clinched it, interestingly the House Sparrows that were also in the area were quite agressive towards the Rufous-collared Sparrow, and there were lots of House Sparrows around. We then headed back to the hotel for a shower then headed out to La Opera for dinner I had a salmon and avocado roll with chips which were again very good and Bev had a chicken tomato and avocado roll, I had a strawberry thickshake, Bev asked for a lemonade and got a wonderful concoction of lemonade mint and another ingredient that we couldn’t grasp what it was, I had a sip, well okay several sips and I wanted more! Back to the hotel and bed early as we have an early start tomorrow.
1/3
We were up at 5.30 and got a taxi down to the Colonia ferry terminal which cost 3500pesos. I had an alfajur for breakfast bought in the terminal. Whilst waiting for the ferry we got some Yellow-chevroned Parakeets. The ferry left at 8.20 and as we moved through the channel I spotted some Brown-hooded Gulls all in non-breeding plumage and some Kelp Gulls. We arrived in Colonia del Sacramento an hour or so later. We were somewhat confused since we thought we’d booked a ferry to Montevideo, nevertheless I noted a small lake and there was plenty of coastline to explore. The first bird for Uraguay was a Rock Dove spotted as we arrived, there was a flowering tree in the terminal with White-throated Hummingbirds zooming around and feeding, a Great Kiskadee arrived in the tree too. House Sparrows and Rufous Horneros abounded, with a few Red-crested Cardinals, Eared Doves and Chalk-browed Mockingbirds. Then I got my second new bird for the day, a Double-collared Seedeater as we headed east through some humpies spread out along the shore to Cantera de Ferrando where there were lots of Brown-breasted Martins and Monk Parakeets. As we approached the lake we got a Red-wing Blackbird. Just as we arrived at the lake a Green Kingfisher came and perched nearby and as I moved to try and get a photo of it I disturbed a House Wren. In the small lake were a pair of White-winged Coots. We got Crested Caracara, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Small-billed Eleana, Haris’s Hawk, Tropical Kingbird and Yellow-chinned Spinetail in the area. We walked out to Dr Carlos Olalde where I found a pair of Picui Ground Doves, then down Gregorio Ayala and through the top end of the park which disappointingly was a eucalypt woodland with zero birds. We stopped at the shopping centre and had lunch at the Porta Vanila cafe, I had Pan de Campo and Bev had Tarta Salada, both were good sized meals. In the grass by the shopping centre was a pair of Southern Lapwings. We walked back to the ferry terminal then west along the parkland shoreline adding Cattle Tyrant, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Picazuro Pigeon, Rufous Bellied Thrush, Sayaca Tanager, Shiny Cowbird, Saffron Finch and Creamy-bellied Thrush. We got as far as the old quarter with its quaint old buildings that now look like a tourist trap, then it was time to head back to the ferry. You’ll note that there was not a single shorebird, not even a gull. As we were boarding the ferry Bev spotted some Neotropic Cormorants, but I missed them. The ferry ride back was as calm as can be. Not all that far from the Argentinian shore was a Snowy-browed Tern that I got a quick look at as it was heading the other way. We got another taxi back to the hotel.
2/3
We didn’t do much today, went and bought a backpack for Bev as her cheap one isn’t coping well. Found a small shop selling interesting belts for my trousers, as my old one looks tatty. We did a basic pack of our suitcases since we have to leave about 10kg behind at the hotel who have kindly agreed to store them for us as we are returning here later in the trip. The problem is that the weight limit is 15kg on the plane, and most of us have 20kg suitcases as that was the lowest limit prior to the stuff up. We then relaxed for the afternoon. We have a free breakfast here which has great variety, so we fill up on that and sneak out a bagel and banana bread and some fruit in a napkin that we have for lunch. For dinner we went to a little place that specializes in empanadas called Tiende de Empanadas not far from the hotel, we got 3 each with a small drink for 1200pesos total which was enough and they were just as good as the much vaunted La Americana ones we had the other night. I did make one mistake in having the carne piquant which I should have realized means spicy meat, but it wasn’t deadly hot. Bed early.
3/3
We were up at 1am and checked out at 1.30, the shuttle man came at 2am with an Imagine rep, who guided us through the airport to check in, then we were on our own. The flight to Ushuaia left at 4.40 and we had specky views as we came in to land. There was an Imagine rep with the shuttle again who took us up to Las Hayar Hotel, the first of the big hotels up the hill. We were way too early to check in so we left our bags and walked down the hill. The first bird was a Crested Caracara, spotted on the way up the hill, by the hotel was a Thorn-tailed Rayadito, in town were some House Sparrows. We got to Lake Encerrada in good time and found Dolphin Gull, Crested Duck, Brown-hooded Gull, Yellow-billed Pintail, a few juvenile Black-crowned Night Herons, a lone Flying Steamer Duck, Kelp Gull, Imperial Shag, Baird’s Sandpiper, Southern Giant Petrel, Rock Shag, Grey-flanked Cinclodes, Red Shoveler, Chloe Widgeon, Speckled Teal and lastly Austral Negrito, the only new bird for me today, we only found females, only a few Rock Dove, and the last bird for the day was a Neotropic Cormorant. They are doing works on the causeway so we had to back track rather than do a loop around the lake. We had lunch at Pepos, both of us had hamburgers, I had Susanna, and Bev had Esmeralda, good hamburgers though the chips were a bit below par. The weather started out sunny and calm but cold, as the day wore on the wind came up and we had a few very light showers, it never got warm, it didn’t even try. I had the hood up on my warm jacket. We got the 17.00 shuttle back up to the hotel and checked in to our room with a view over the Beagle Channel, as we arrived we had a dusting of snow. It’s cold.
4/3
Not surprisingly the breakfast was vast. Soon after we were heading along the trail into the Beech forest. By the hotel, we got Rufous-collared Sparrow and Patagonian Sierra Finch. The trail was quite steep with no birds for most of the way. Near our turn around point we got a small group of Thorn-tailed Ryaditos. At our turn around point we got some clear views of yesterdays snowfall on clearing mountain tops at the clearing. It was then back to the hotel to pack. Just as we got back to the hotel a Black-faced Ibis flew overhead. We were on the bus in good time that took us down to the port. Before too long we had boarded the ship and found our cabin, rather pokey after our hotel rooms but we don’t care. We went to the ship’s cafe for lunch then went for a walk back to the lake adding South American Tern. Back to the ship well before cut off time and we sat at the back of the ship and watched South Polar Skua, Black-browed Albatross, Southern Giant Petrel and amongst all the Kelp Gulls a handful of Olrog’s Gulls. About 500m off the back of the ship a pair of Humpback Whales performed several beaches for those few that ventured out in the biting wind. We set sail early. We had a quick dinner and back out on deck in time to see Dolphins, Antarctic Seals and not long before dark a few Magellanic Penguins. Bev went to bed and I hung around savouring the experience until it was too dark and too cold before I went back to the cabin.
5/3
I was out on deck early at the back of the ship and was rewarded by what I think was a very young Northern Royal Albatross. Bev is doing okay with her seasickness but didn’t have much for breaky, I on the other hand am eating too much, but enjoying it. The seas were really very calm and the birding was very sparse with sometimes an hour going by without a single bird. The ship ran a bird watching activity in the morning where most people weren’t birdos but a few of us were, and this was probably the most productive part of the day as far as species go, with Atlantic Petrel, Wandering Albatross, Great Shearwater, Soft-plumaged Petrel and a prion species that was too hard to ID. Later in the day I found a Wilson’s Storm Petrel. We had dinner at one of the proper restaurants rather than the cafe. Afterwards I decided to have a quick look at the back of the ship and met Torre and Jake where along with Bev we all saw Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and Southern Fulmar. Bed soon after.
6/3
Up for sunrise at Smith island, but the island was covered in cloud, the bird for the site here was quite a few diving petrels milling around together. We moved east to Deception Island where on the south side we got Chinstrap Penguins and a mother and calf Humpback Whale close to the ship. On the east side of the island past the entrance was a Chinstrap Penguin colony where there were Snowy Sheathbills at long distance. Livingstone was partially shrouded in cloud, at Hannah Aldon Point there was a group of Elephant Seals on the beach again at long distance but by this time I had rushed down to get the scope, which we erected out of the wind to get a better view. On to Admiralty Bay which I think in clear sunlight would be brilliant but we had dull cloudy conditions with some light showers and sleet. There were Gentoo Penguins in the water and a few Antarctic Cormorants flying around. The ship lingered at the terminal of the Lang Glacier in the vain hope of witnessing a calving, to no avail. As the ship moved out of the bay and it got dark we went down to a different free restaurant for dinner, a really nice three course dinner again, with not too much food. As part of our deal we get free drinks, neither of us are much into alcohol but I’ve been having a glass of Merlot with my meal. Today I started getting quite a cruel sore throat because of being outside in the bitter cold a lot. The wine seemed to soothe the sore throat so I couldn’t resist a quiet gargle, which helped even more. You just take me anywhere. Bed soon after dinner.
7/3
Didn’t wake up until 7.00 this morning Bev said I snored a lot last night, ironic because I didn’t hear her snore at all. It was still dull with a lowering cloud and the odd flurry of snow as we passed Gibbs Island I got the first Cape Petrel. As we approached Cornwallis island we got Grey-headed Petrel. In the distance we could see easily 100 whales spouting. There are shallows between Cornwallis and Elephant Islands where all the Fin Whales were feeding along with hundreds of Cape Petrels and an assortment of other birds we’ve seen already along with a few White-chinned Petrels. It was the highlight of the trip. The weather stayed flat and gloomy all day making for poor photography. At Cape Wilde the ship turned north. We listened to a string trio playing their electronic versions of cello, violin and I couldn’t tell whether it was another violin or viola, they were very good though. We then went to the Italian Restaurant for dinner and had a US$93 meal that didn’t cost anything as it’s part of our package. Nice meal without being spectacular. Bed again soon after.
8/3
Slept in a bit this morning, being in an inside cabin there is no light to tell you the sun is risen. When I got outside it was dull and cloudy with the odd spot of precipitation, which persisted all day. I got a sub adult Royal Albatross and a 1st year Wandering Albatross before it was time for breaky, afterwards I sat by a window until lunch then sat in the Atrium and listened to music until dinner which we went to the Japanese Restaurant for, again pleasant food a three course dinner the only thing different was that they had sake, so I got some. It’s not my favourite dink ever but I managed to finish the 250ml jug. Bed soon after.
9/3
Up at 5.30 to get ourselves on an early tender. The desk didn’t open until 7.00 and I was 9th in line, I thought bewdy we’ll get on an early one. At just before 7.00 an anouncement was made that if you were ready to go now you could get straight on to a tender, what cruelty! Bev showed up so I got her to get a ticket whilst I raced upstairs for a quick breaky that I wolfed down, back to the room to collect our stuff and we were soon on our way. It was then that Bev realized she’d left her binoculars and camera behind in the rush. We alighted from our tender which is one of the lifeboats at 7.45 and after getting a map we set off along the coastline east on a cold but sunny day which warmed up well throughout the day. The first bird was House Sparrow, then Kelp Gull and Imperial Cormorant. The first new bird was Falkland Steamer Duck with a Flying Steamer Duck nearby. Upland Goose was next then Rock Shag with several young that are nearly all black except for a small white throat patch. Crested Duck turned up. We came to the market garden which looked like it wasn’t going to be productive until we first got Dark-faced Ground Tyrant then Austral Thrush, by the water was Kelp Goose. A flash of red revealed a male Long-tailed Meadowlark, and some yellow birds amongst the House Sparrows were Hooded Siskin. We next came across Blackish Oystercatcher and a Turkey Vulture came slowly along the shoreline. Next came a few Southern Giant Petrels one after the other and a Brown Skua. I photgraphed a bird that I thought was a siskin but which turned out to be a female White-bridled Finch which was my target bird for the day. At the wreck of the lady Elizabeth we parted ways, Bev went to Gypsy Cove and I followed the bay around on the north side. I found a spit with Rufous-chested Dotterel and Two-banded Plover with some White-rumped Sandpiper. The small lake on the other side of the road was dry. On Surf Beach I got Magellanic Oystercatcher. The bird I’d hoped to find was nowhere to be seen, or so I thought, but I’d already seen it hadn’t I, so I started heading back, at one stage I cut across a bit of wild land which had channels in it draining it. Some of the channels had water, and from beside one out popped a Grass Wren bobbing away in a nearby bush. There is a large channel by the road near the Box Bridge which also had water and out from that popped a White-bridled Finch. Bingo! I then retraced our steps from early this morning and found a heap of them around an abandoned truck where I’d taken a photo of an Austral Thrush where I managed a good shot of one of the finches. It was there where I bumped into Bev who had seen Magellanic Penguins at the cove and likely a King Penguin on the beach. We had a rest and a drink of water on a seat and got Black-crowned Night Heron. We got back into town and had a late lunch in a small cafe then bought some souvenirs, then stood in the line to get back to the ship. As the ship was heading off we could see all the penguins on the shore with Sooty Shearwaters flying beside the ship and a few unidentified whales blowing well off in the distance. At one point we got a pod of Commerson’s/Peale’s Dolphins porpoising off the port side. We had dinner in the cafe then went to the atrium to listen to the music.
10/3
My cold peaked yesterday and apart from a few coughing fits I had a good sleep. We both slept in so it was nearly 9.00 when we went for breaky. I spent a bit of time at the back of the ship and got Cory’s Shearwater along with Atlantic Petrel. In the afternoon the fog came down so I spent the avo in the Atrium. We went back to the Versailles restaurant for dinner and had another nice three course meal and watched our TV for the first time.
11/3
There was fog on the water until mid morning when I ventured to the back of the ship but there wasn’t much to see, a few Great Shearwaters, White-chinned Petrels and Black-browed Albatross. An interesting surprise was a lone Brown Booby and late in the avo we had a bush bird try to land on the ship, I’m pretty sure it was a Grey Monjita, they migrate north from the coast to the north of Argentina, and this looks like it wandered off course. We went to Le Bistro the French restaurant and had the best meal yet, not by a long way though.
So Bev would rate the experience at 8/10 if we hadn’t had the problems. She was disappointed at the lack of tabular icebergs and that’s because we didn’t go south far enough. For a cheap way to get a taste of Antarctica it was acceptable. For me having done an expedition trip to Antarctica it was only 3/10. So if you can afford the expedition trip and can get in and out of zodiacs etc. they are so much more immersive, you get to many more places, get much closer to the wildlife and the staff are much more knowledgable and accessible. Neither of us though are looking at doing much in the way of cruising again, it just isn’t our scene.
We were in some ways very lucky with the weather, we didn’t have a single rough day at sea. The islands however were all covered in cloud making for poor photography and the wildlife was all too far away, a function of not doing any landings in Antarctica. The closest I could get to the water on the ship was deck 7 where there was a promenade deck. We were only allowed on the bow at one point where we got the whales feeding and that was on deck 6, that’s equivalent of birding from the 6th floor of a building, not ideal.
12/3
We understood that the first exit from the ship would be 8.00, but an announcement came over at 7.00 saying those who were looking after their own luggage could leave now, so we went and had our breaky, did the final packing and headed down to deck 5 to disembark, we got to the head of the queue only to find that we had to go to another desk first where Bev got a refund we think for the prepayed service charges that we didn’t use in the first few days of the trip, we got US$55. So we joined the back of the long queue again and this time made it off the ship into a bus to take us to the port terminal. There we found an Imagine person who told us we were on the 10.00 bus, it was going to be a long wait. We saw that people were organizing their own transport and that there was plenty of room on the earlier buses, so we got permission to get on one and we made it back to the Savoy Hotel, there we found that we were on an earlier flight to Iguazu, this was news to us. We then checked in to the hotel but couldn’t get our room until 15.00, so we sat in the lounge until lunch and went to the small supermarket just down the road and got a wrap, mine was a soggy vegetable one. We went to the gardens in front of the congress to eat, then lazed there for a while. By the time we got back we could get our room. This time we are again on the second floor but we have a front facing room with a balcony. When dinner time came we went to a small bakery cafeteria and had a pleasant meal for 2200pesos each.
13/3
Went down to the ecological reserve only to find that it was closed, apparently it either is always closed on a Monday or is often closed on a Monday, the gate staff were all there looking blankly at us from behind locked gates. Wandered around past all the trucks from Paraguay to the power station and did a loop around the new housing development that is encroaching on the wetland, the only bird of interest was a Double-collared Seedeater, which we’d got in Uraguay, so it’s new for Argentina. Wandered back to the hotel. For dinner we went a few blocks north of the hotel to Reggina Cafe and I had a good hamburger and chips, Bev had gnocci, we were both too full for the nice looking cakes they had. Cost of 4650pesos total, Bev gave them a small tip, which we usually don’t give.
14/3
Today was a wasted day. We lazed in the room until check out time, then waited until an Imagine person turned up. We had been slated for the 12.30 shuttle bus to the airport, but our name was crossed off and not put anywhere else. It seems we are booked on the 18.50 flight, but we aren’t sure. So we got the 12.30 shuttle to the domestic airport. We had a go at getting on an earlier flight but they were going to charge us, so we booked ourselves in to the 18.50 flight and waited. One more stuff up reared its head soon after when we found that there was a 15kg limit on checked in luggage. Imagine had emailed us saying we had a 20kg limit but the airline people said there was no such deal. Ours are around 20kg thanks to some friends on the ship who are doing the cruise rather than Iguazu falls, and they let us put all the cold weather clothes in their cabin getting our suitcases down to the expected 20kg. We found that they will take up to 18kg without charge, we got mine down to 17.5kg and Bev’s was bang on 18kg. When it came time to check in we had no probs, thankfully they didn’t weigh my 11kg cabin luggage. The flight left a bit late and the pilot expertly dodged a few thunderstorms on the way to Iguazu. We were met by Israel and Manuel the local guides who took us to the Amerian Hotel, it looks grand but some parts are in need of some refurbishment, still a nice room though. The check in was quick. It was nearing 23.00 when we ordered dinner which for me was an enormous club sandwich. The hotel is right at the confluence of the Iguazu and Parana river so we walked down to take a peek at the slowly swirling waters. It was 00.15 when we turned out the lights after having to get the concierge to show us how to get the A/C working, it’s by pushing the key card down a second time in the slot in the wall, never seen that before.
15/3
Breakfast was at 6.00, and by 6.30 we were out seeing what was in the immediate area. Most were not new like Great Kiskadee, Tropical Kingbird, Eared Dove, Rufous Hornero, House Sparrow, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Creamy-bellied Thrush, Sayaca Tanager, but I did get Purple-throated Euphonia, Large Eleania and Bananaquit as new. The bus came at 8.00 and we headed off to the falls. The first birds I got were Saffron Finch and Social Flycatcher. We were soon on the blue trail that took us to the thunderous falls, that didn’t disappoint, the only problem was the endless throng of other tourists. By the trail we got Smooth-billed Ani and Red-rumped Cacique. Swirling around the falls were lots of Black Vultures, and by the water was a Great Egret. We got a wild Muscovy Duck and Neotropic Cormorant. At the cafes were Eared Doves and Plush-crested Jays. We got the electric train out to the Devil’s Gullet falls and whilst crossing one of the metal walkways over the brown rushing water a huge black catfish rose to the surface briefly. Late in the day we did the lower trail where we got Violacious Euphonia and good views of Toco Toucan and Chestnut-eared Aracari. We had missed the first sighting of the toucan and were about to head off when the aracari arrived, not long after 3 toucans came and chased to aracari pair off. Back at the top on a lawned area I got Southern Lapwing, Cattle Tyrant, Rufous Hornero and Campo Flicker with some Great Dusky Swifts overhead. Throughout the day we saw lots of spectacular butterflies, a few sightings of Black Capuchin Monkeys and also some Coaties. All too soon the day was over and it was time to get back on the bus and back to the hotel. I ventured back out to the confluence of the rivers where I added Blue and White Swallow, and a few photos of birds we got in the morning. I saw some locals poking at something and saw it scurry away and recognized it immediately, I quickly walked over to them and asked them if I could get a photo before they shooed it too far, sure enough it was a wonderful hand sized tarantula, stunning. We had a quick look at the market close by where we saw a fridge magnet the same as we got in the park today at 1/3 the price. We ate at the Punto Ar restaurant and had an enormous hamburger and chips, once again too much to add on a desert afterwards. We started out at a table facing the waters, but a storm came in forcing us back a row, and as the storm proper hit we retreated to the upper level. After the meal it was back to the hotel and bed.
16/3
We both didn’t sleep well last night, Bev is coming down with a cold and mine just won’t quite go away, so we slept in a bit. Just outside the hotel we got a House Wren, we then wandered down to the confluence and got some Blue Dacnis and I got a look at a Guilded Hummingbird in adult plumage, superbly golden. back to the hotel to pack and have breakfast. The bus came at 9.00 and we exited Argentina after a painfully long wait at customs. The entry into Brazil was much quicker. We were taken to an emporium where Bev bought some souvenirs, I hung around outside and got a Ruddy Ground Dove. We eventually arrived at the falls on the Brazilian side and went for our walk with spectacular views across to all the falls on the Argentinian side, ending with a soaking on a concrete walkway out to the base of the main falls. There were virtually no birds though I got a close up of a Black Vulture and in the carpark I got some Thrush-like Wrens. There were less butterflies too than on the Argentinian side. We had a sandwich then it was back on the bus and to the Viva Cataratas hotel. On the way out of the park I spotted a Crested Caracara. We went for a stroll in the jungle at the back of the hotel and got Eared Dove, Tropical Kingbird, Glittering Bellied Emerald, Sayaca Tanager, Pale-breasted Thrush, Green-winged Saltator, Banaquit, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Red-rumped Cacique, Smooth-billed Ani and Chestnut-eared Aracari. We ate at the hotel as there’s little option in the area, being 8km out of town.
17/3
I went out early by myself and got Saffron-billed Sparrow and Black-goggled Tanager as new then back for another vast breakfast after which we both went out into the jungle and added Surucua Trogon, frustratingly the camera refused to focus on it and it flew off along with a Guira Tanager that we only briefly saw, there were also some Hepatic Tangers. Flitting around the tops of the trees were some Chestnut-vented Conebills and in the open area a Brown-crested Flycatcher, Green-winged Saltator and Pale-bellied Thrush. There were no doubt other species that we couldn’t get an ID on. We also got a few birds that we’ve already seen like Bananaquit, Great Kiskadee and Social Flycatcher. We went to the water park next door which we have free access to and I had my first ever water slide, it was quite exhilerating and just a little bit scary as you have no control as you hurtle around bends, once was enough. We then had lunch which at 85Reals was disappointing, and we lazed the afternoon heat away in the room. I ventured out late and added Harris’s Hawk, Picazuro Pigeon, Common Tody Flycatcher and Boat-billed Flycatcher. Dinner was better than lunch then we lazed in our room til bed.
18/3
Up early and did a round of the jungle and finally got a look at a bird I’d heard a lot, it was a Golden-crowned Warbler, another bird I thought I recognized as an oriole did turn out to be the Epaulet Oriole. also got a look at another Guilded Sapphire, back for breaky then out again but got nothing new. We were packing up when out of the window I spotted a Blackish Blue Seedeater feeding on the grasses out the window. At 11.00 the bus came and we all headed off to the airport. We had a very ordinary roll for lunch and we boarded the plane for Rio and headed off at 14.50. I got a glimpse of the falls off in the distance and all too soon the verdant green carpet of the jungle gave way to the ugly endless patchwork of farms to the coast. The Iguazu River runs through the farmland before it enters the jungle so it picks up all the farm residue including silt which is making the water murkier than it was historically, this of course if impacting all the animals that use the river. We were met by Marcus from Imagine at the airport and boarded the bus to the hotel Arena Leme. On the way we spotted lots of Magnificent Frigatebirds and Black Vultures. We got to our room on the 9th floor just in time to take a late sunset shot along the Copacabana beach. We dumped our gear and went for a walk along the esplanade finding TG’s cafe on the edge of the beach where I had my traditional hamburger and Bev got ravioli, for an equivalent A$42, then back to the room.
19/3
Up at 5.30 and down for breakfast at 6.00, and out to where the track to the ecological park starts which is in the army base, it was then that we found that there is no access until 9.30 so with our departure at 10.00 it was defeat. We did get a few new birds around the hotel. Some Brown Boobies streaming by just off the coast, a pair of Masked Water Tyrants did some displaying in the trees, a beautiful Swallow-tailed Hummingbird scooted between the flowers in the boxes outside the hotel, and from the roof top we got some Blue and White Swallows. The buses came at 10.00 and we went to the cog train to take us up to Christ the Redeemer statue. Whilst waiting for a train I got some Plain Parakeets in nearby trees. The view from the plinth was amazing, the statue enormous and the throng of people inevitable. We went for a short walk down the road just to get away from the people, but there was an endless stream of vans transporting the patrons and the angry buzz of helicopters constantly disturbing the peace, the result was no bush birds, just the occasional pass by a vulture. Soon the hour was up and we got on the train to get back down, just then a monkey appeared and also a bush bird that I suspect was a tanager but I got no positive ID from the train, so all in all not the best wildlife experience, but then nobody goes there to see the wildlife. Once we got to the bottom of the cog train it was back on the bus and we got taken to the port to start the next cruise. The check in process was hoplessly inefficient as we spent around 2hrs just waiting our turn to check in. Once on board we were so late that we had to do the emergency drill which droned on forever, but at least we got a drill. On the first leg of the trip because we had joined the ship late we were given no instruction and I kept on forgeting to find out about it. Most of the info though is on one of the TV channels. It was 15.30 by the time we got to the restaurant for our lunch and dinner, during which we set sail so to speak. I quickly finished my meal and grabbed my camera to get a few shots of sunset over Rio. We were soon out to sea and sailing along the coast.
20/3
We now both have cruel colds with mine coming back with a vengeance overnight. Today was a sea day with calm dead flat blue seas, so not much in the way of birds to see. We passed a freighter with some Masked Boobies and a Cape Gannet had to get out of our way at one stage and then it settled on the water again. We ate at the Versailles Restuarant for dinner and was a nice sized 3 course dinner again.
21/3
Up early and sat at the back of the ship for an hour but only saw Brown Boobies. Breaky and by then we were docked in Salvador, so with both of us still suffering from colds we headed south. The first birds were Great Egret, House Sparrow and Black-crowned Night Heron. It wasn’t long before we found a tree that the footpath was directly above at the marina so we could stand and watch all the birds come and go from the tree. We got Great Kiskadee, Rock Dove, Tropical Kingbird, Sayaca Tanager, Peach-fronted Parakeet, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, Violet-capped Woodnymph, Smooth-billed Ani, Social Flycatcher, Rufous Hornero, Swainson’s Flycatcher, Ruddy Ground Dove, Masked Water Tyrant, Tropical Mockingbird and Bananaquit. It was hot and sticky as we wound our way around the coast eventually finding a lookout over some more trees adding Chile Swallow and Ruddy Ground Dove. Bev stayed behind and I walked down the hill to the lighthouse which is a bit of a tourist area, I searched the rocks for something interesting without luck, then struggled back up the hill in the heat. We copped some rain on the way back, and near the ship we got Caatinga Cachalote and Plain Parakeet. We had a late lunch in the cafe and lazed the avo away in the cabin. We set sail near dark and it was 19.30 when we ventured up for dinner, neither of us feeling all that hungry. Bev went to see a show, I went back to the cabin.
22/3
Today was a sea day where we sailed parallel to the coast some 200km to the west. I had several sessions standing at the back of the ship all for a single sub adult Brown Booby, not my most exciting birding day ever.
23/3
We arrived in Recife early so we had an early breaky and were off the ship early. From the ship I had seen some remnant habitat in front of the ship, so we started heading that way, but the police advised us not to go that way, we started going that way anyway and soon a car pulled up and emphatically told us not to go that way, so we turned around and followed the river until we found a bridge to cross over. On the other side were some mangroves with Yellow-crowned Night Heron. There is a problem doing photography early because we get condensation on the lens from being in the air conditioned cabin to the hot and humid city, so I had to wait until the camera acclimatized. We found some Common Marmosets in the mangroves as well as Cattle Egrets breeding with unfledged young clambering around the branches. The tide was going out and we were near a confulence which had a good mudflat, as the tide went out new birds started to appear, Collared Plover, Least Sandpiper, Whimbrel, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, Little Blue Heron, in the mangroves were Bananaquit and Great Kiskadee, in the grasses were Common Waxbill, Ruddy Dove and Eared Dove. In some palm trees were Palm Tanager. We moved to the other river and got Spotted Sandpiper, Masked Water Tyrant and Southern Lapwing, we then thought we’d head for some gardens a few kilometres away. Along the way at one river crossing we got Amazon Kingfisher and on a telegraph pole was a Roadside Hawk, soaring overhead were Black Vultures. We decided that the gardens were too far away in the gathering heat, and neither of us are in top health so we turned back, spent the last of our Reals on some souvenirs and went back to the ship for lunch, then had a snooze. As the ship set off I went out on deck and well out to sea got some Manx Shearwaters. We went to the Aqua restaurant for another good meal.
24/3
We slept in today and the time change made it even later when we went for breakfast. After breaky I went out on deck and saw a pod of around 12 Common Dolphins porpoising away from the ship, I also got Northern Gannet and Masked Booby. Later I went out again and got more flotsam than birds. We crossed the equator at 18.40 so we went out to the top deck and took a photo with Ollie. As usual neither of us were hungry so we just went to the buffet and had a small meal.
25/3
Had a terrible night’s sleep so slept in. Breaky then spent some time on deck 7. Saw lots of flying fish escaping at 90 degrees from the ship some gliding quite a long way before they stalled back into the sea. There was a constant stream of seaweed all day too, but not a single bird could I find. I conceded defeat and went to the doctors at 18.00 with a US $149 consultation fee plus all the tests and treatments it’s going to be an expensive visit. The doctor said I had bronchitis and I spent 2hrs there whilst they did the tests and treatments then I got 2 drugs to be taken over the next week or so. We had another dinner at the Versailles restaurant and had another really nice meal. I felt a bit woozy after but got back to the cabin okay.
26/3
Another sea day as we creep slowly towards Cape Verde. I feel a lot better today after a good night’s sleep. On my first watch at the back of the ship I got a probable Red-billed Tropicbird but it was too brief a sighting and too far away to get a positive ID. On my next watch Bev joined me and we got what at first glance looked like dolphins, but they were close enough to the ship to see that they were in fact Pilot Whales a pod of about 10 of them and most likely Short-finned. In the afternoon we got a rather rude shock when we got the bill for my 2hr treatment last night. I’d expected about US$1000-1500, the bill came in at US$3642.28, can you believe that! Lesson here do not get sick on board a ship. Thankfully our travel insurance should cover it, fingers, toes and eyes crossed for that let me tell you. In the late afternoon we played a game of shuffleboard, I won. Another good dinner at Versailles restaurant.
27/3
Up with the sun to see what I could find as we came in to Cape Verde Islands. I was rewarded with a pair of dolphins possibly Spinner Dolphins but no birds until close to port when a Squacco Heron flew by, next was a pair of Great Cormorants and a Little Egret. We had breaky and left the ship soon after 8am and walked past the beach and out to the point where there is an old gun emplacement, we got Rock Dove, and Iago Sparrow early, out along the ridgeline above us was a Brown-necked Raven. Disappointingly the track ended at the point, so we turned back and found an Osprey, back in town we got an African Collared Dove and in the harbour were some Little Egrets and Grey Heron. We passed the fish market which had no gulls hanging around, very strange. We passed colourful houses and walked out along the airport road by the beach . Off in the acacia shrubland we saw some Cattle Egrets, so with no birds on the beach we went to have a look at the possible wetland. It turned out to be a marvellous place, with every look around a bush there were more waders to find. We got Intermediate Egret, Kentish Plover, Whimbrel, Little Ringed Plover, Ruddy Turnstone, Sanderling, Common Redshank, Common Greenshank, Eurasian Spoonbill, Black-winged Stilt, Little Stint, Common Ringed Plover, Black Heron. Flying overhead we got Common Kestrel. We used up what time we could then headed back into town. Earlier we had withdrawn 1000escudos but had no idea what it was worth. When we went to buy our fridge magnet memento the girl at the market wanted 3euros, which we didn’t have, so we went and withdrew 5000escudos and went to a man that we’d seen on the way out. He spoke English and only wanted 200escudos for a magnet. We now had too much money, so we went back to the market to where we’d seen some wonderful looking material and bought 4000escudos worth. It was now time to head back to the ship. Once we set off I parked myself at my usual spot in the hope of spotting a few seabirds but got nothing. Graeme and Julie rang us up and invited us to have dinner with them in the Aqua restaurant, so we had another good meal with good company.
28/3
A sea day today, the only highlight for the day was a pod of what looked like 8 Bottle-nosed Dolphins that came in and surfed for a short while in the waves created by the back of the ship then fell behind. Today we had dinner with Rebecca and Hayden at the Versailles restaurant, another good meal with good company.
29/3
Our arrival in to Tenerife was at midday so I had plenty of time to look for seabirds on the way in to port, the only one that I could find though was Cory’s Shearwater. In the port were some Yellow-legged Gulls and a pair of Common Gull. As usual there were plenty of Rock Doves in town. We had an early lunch then ventured out into Santa Cruz. Along the esplanade were large trees that had Atlantic Canary in the canopy along with Blackbird, we then headed up Valle Tohodio to Anaga Rural Park finding House Sparrow, Collared Dove, Greenfinch, Common Kestrel, African Blue Tit, Sardinian Warbler, Common Whitethroat and Canary Island Chiffchaff. Near the top of our walk we found some Plain Swift. It was soon time to turn back . We found we had some time so I went for a walk the other way along the esplanade to the Opera House finding Tree Sparrow. On our way out to sea there were lots of Cory’s Shearwaters again but I couldn’t find anything else. Tonight we had another good meal with the good company of Ross and Cathy at the Versailles Restaurant.
30/3
We arrived in Funchal Madeira Island not long after sunrise so I didn’t get much chance to spot seabirds. In the port were Yellow-legged Gulls and Rock Pigeon. The esplanade walk didn’t have much in the way of birdlife just some Greenfinch. Our target was the cablecar along with half the population of Funchal it cost 18euros to get us up to the botanical gardens return. The gardens were 12.50euros. In there we found Blackbird, Madeira Firecrest, Common Kestrel, Blackcap, Atlantic canary, European Robin and Goldfinch. There were some ornamental ducks, Mute Swans and some very nervous flamingos in the main lake all presumably with clipped wings. We wandered around the streets above the gardens for a bit then got the cablecar back down and wandered through the old town which is now a tourist trap. In the culverts were Muscovy Ducks and Little Egret. It was then back to the ship.
31/3
Today was a sea day with not much happening at sea, only a lone probable Northern Gannet well behind the ship. Today was our 15th wedding anniversary so to celebrate we went to the French restaurant for dinner and had a US$138 meal as part of our free package. We passed through the Strait of Gibraltar at about midnight. There were a lot of disgruntled patrons at the front of the ship lamenting that we were going through in the dark. Soon after I was asleep.
1/4
It was still dark when we arrived in Motril, as it was getting light we went and had our breaky and got the first shuttlebus into the city centre. There we found Park de los Pueblos de America and got Yellow-legged Gull, Rock Dove, Wood Pigeon, Serin, Common Swift, Pallid Swift, Collared Dove, Blackbird, House Sparrow, Greenfinch, Sardinian Warbler, Barn Swallow, Mallard, Spotless Starling, House Martin, Common Kestrel and Goldfinch. We walked back beside market gardens adding White Wagtail, Cattle Egret, Chaffinch, Cetti’s Warbler and Common Waxbill. Bev has still not recovered from her cough so she got some medicine from a pharmacy then we headed along the coast a bit to a wetland, but the gates were locked. Eventually at 11.30 the curator came and let us in and locked the gates behind us. We were in La Charca de Suarez wetland, we had 1 ½hrs to see it and get back to the gate to be let out. In broken English he pointed us up the track to where we found Red-knobbed Coot breeding. As we worked our way around meeting a few other local birdos we added, Common Gallinule, Little Grebe, Blackcap, Black-winged Stilt, Glossy Ibis, Grey Heron, Purple Heron, Green Sandpiper, Great Tit, Common Buzzard, Purple Swamphen, Gadwall and Great Cormorant. We walked back along the beach and into the port and back to the ship. After lunch we had a snooze. I headed to the open deck as we left port but found no seabirds. I did get a pair of Common Dolphins about 1hr out and 1/2hr later a pod of 8. We went to the Brazilian BBQ restaurant and had a US$118 meal as part of our free package. After that we went and watched a very funny, very clever Steve Rawlings. His 1hr show had everyone laughing, even me.
2/4
I was up with the sun and out on deck but got no seabirds again, it turns out that the local Cory’s Shearwaters in Ibiza don’t mind feeding in the port with all the Yellow-legged Gulls. The highlight of the day came early today when I got an Andouin’s Gull amongst all the yellow-legged ones around the ship, a Pallid Swift and a White Wagtail also passed over the ship, but it was all downhill from there despite going up the hills in search of more natural habitat after a stroll along Talamanca beach where there was another Audouin’s Gull that I was able to get a shot of. Up in the hills we did find Wood Pigeon, Greenfinch, Collared Dove, Blackbird, Great Tit, Sardinian Warbler, Kestrel, and Linnet. We found Ses Feixes Prat De Ses Monges a degraded wetland that has a lot of incursion, we strolled the roads that run through it finding Cattle Egret, Mallard, Common Gallinule, Whitethroat, Common Snipe, Barn Swallow, Little Egret, Chiffchaff and Glossy Ibis. From there we had a look along the marina esplanade and found a Black Redstart. Back to the ship for a late lunch then relaxed until we set sail and not long after that we had dinner and then packed up.
3/4
Arose at 6am and up for breakfast and disembarked the ship at 7am. There was no one from Imagine to greet us and no one we knew waiting. Eventually others we knew started to turn up but it wasn’t until 8.45 that someone from Imagine turned up and we were soon on our way to the Sb Plaza Europa hotel a nice 4star hotel. For once we were lucky in that our room was ready whereas most people had to wait for their room to be cleaned. Bev has decided to get some medical attention for her cough that just won’t go away. I hired a bike for 20 euros and went down to Espais Naturalis del Riu Liobregat, near the mouth of the river. I had no probs finding it but found it closed, what is it with wetlands and Mondays and me? So I cycled the channels near the airport and then went a few kilometres up the river. I found Eurasian Magpie, European Robin, Monk Parakeet, Barn Swallow, European Siskin, Greylag Goose, Mallard. Great Egret, Great Tit, House Sparrow, Blackcap, Common Gallinule, Wood Pigeon, Eurasian Coot, Crested Lark, European Stonechat, Common Hoopoe, Carrion Crow, Goldfinch and Spotless Starling. Naturally I lost my way on the way back but thankfully found my way again. Bev had the doctor come to her for 150euros, she is now on antibiotics too. We ate dinner at the shopping centre across the road from the hotel, first at Klutz & Gut where I had a good hamburger for 8.95euros then to another cafe for a smoothie. Back to the hotel and sleep.
4/4
The bus came for us at 11.30 and we boarded our plane for Dubai for an Emirates noneventfull flight. I didn’t get a window seat. I get just a little bit pannicky on take off and landing if I can’t see out the window. I hate not being in control, mind you I don’t get it on a ship. I got a window seat for the flight to Perth. We had a vacant seat next to us again so I was able to sort of lie down for some sleep. We landed at 17.30 and were out at about 18.30. We were picked up from the airport by our friend from Greenwood who had graciously let us leave our car and trailer parked on the verge of his house. We took nearly an hour to get ready and headed off north at about 19.30
If you would like to contribute the the well being of this world, our world, your world, an easy and effective way to do it is to join a quality environmental group. There are many spread across the world all plugging away trying to make the world a better place for wildlife. We belong to Birdlife Australia, Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) and Australian Wildlife Conservancy (AWC). You can donate your time and or money to these and many others knowing that the world will be a slightly better place because of your effort.