16/4/13
Up 5.45 had a double breakfast and Bev drove me to the airport, had an easy trip through the gate and then a 2hr wait to board the plane. Someone didn’t get on the flight so they had to search the hold for their luggage, so we were late taking off. The Air Asia flight was long and boring with only my iPod for entertainment. The A$5 chicken satay was bland but edible. Kuala Lumpur was hot. I found out that I had to get my bus pass stamped before they’d let me on the bus, took me a while to find out where THE Air Asia service spot was to get it stamped, eventually found the right bus in the melee of buses and got to the city a lot later than planned. Thankfully Smathi was there waiting patiently. We got the train to Taman Jaya station and walked to Smathi’s mums tower and up to her flat on the 33rd floor. Drove down to the local shops and had Chinese at the IPOH chicken rice, a famous spot, good food. Got a few things from the supermarket. Whilst packing for tomorrow I realized I’d left my toiletry bag behind, so we scraped a few necessaries together. Tree Sparrow, House Crow, Asian Openbill, Javan Myna, Barn Swallow, Pacific Swallow, Feral Pigeon, Edible Nest Swiftlet, Asian Koel, Brown Shrike.
17/4
Up before dawn, had to repack because I couldn’t fit everything in and found my toilet bag, apparently I had already packed it and then went looking for it again last night, which of course is how I found it this morning , walked down to the station, Black-naped Oriole, House Swift, Common Myna. Walked around the flea market and then got the bus to Jerantut in Pahang, saw what was likely a Changeable Hawk-eagle on the way. Had a walk in the vicinity of the station and added Chinese Pond Heron, Little Egret, Striated Heron, Common Sandpiper, Scaly-breasted Munia, Pied Fantail, Pied Triller, Common Iora, Yellow-vented Bulbul, Paddyfield Pipit, Oriental Magpie-robin, Spotted Turtledove. White-throated Kingfisher. Had noodles for lunch, then after a brief heavy downpour we got on a minibus that took us to the river. A long pleasant boat ride got us to Taman Nagara . At one stage we were trying to overtake another boat, its wake crashed in to us soaking all but one person, I had forgotten that my phone was in my pocket, it got soaked and ruined. Along the river we saw Red-wattled Lapwing, Blue-throated Bee-eater, Dollarbird, Emerald Dove, Crested Serpent Eagle, Grey-rumped Tree-swift. My suitcase is starting to come unstitched along the zip, had to carry it 500m across sand and stones then drag it up a steep hill to the Abbot Guest house, small, one double bed, we asked for a mattress and one was eventually procured, we had a/c which is necessary for a good night’s rest. Went for a walk up the road to the edge of the forest and got Jungle Myna, Black and Buff Woodpecker, White-bellied Munia, Barred Woodpecker, White-breasted Waterhen, Blue-winged Leafbird, Asian Brown Flycatcher. Went down to the floating restaurants and had sweet and sour chicken. My first mouthful was a mouthful of chilli, after that it was okay. We met up with two guys from the boat trip and went on the 4wd safari, it went for 1 ½ hours mainly through Palm Oil plantations, saw Sunda Slow Loris and Buffy Fish-owl in the village, then Leopard Cat, Barn Owl, and Small-toothed Palm-civet and a Wild Pig in the plantations, which was more than I was expecting. To bed absolutely exhausted.
18/4
Up after dawn, had our cheese sandwiches and water, and walked down to the boat crossing, paid our 1rm each (A$1 =3rm) and headed off along the boardwalk beside the river, the birding was slow but steady all day from the resort to the canopy walk which was disappointing with only one bird sighted. Up to the top of Bukit Teresek and back the same way. Black-headed Bulbul, Yellow-vented Flowerpecker, Chestnut-headed Forktail, Scaly-crowned Babbler, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Rufous Woodpecker, Grey-cheeked Bulbul. Yellow-bellied Bulbul, Streaked Bulbul, Ashy Bulbul, Red-throated Sunbird, Asian Fairy Bluebird, Greater leafbird, Purple-naped Sunbird, Raffle’s Malkoha. Had a late lunch at 14.15. We were both knackered so had a nap in the arvo and went back across the river in the eve to a fruiting fig tree in the resort, and got Yellow-rumped Flycatcher, Thick-billed Green Pigeon, Crimson-winged Woodpecker, Common Tailorbird, Stripe-throated Bulbul, had a look at the hide on dusk but saw nothing . Back for dinner during which we had a brief storm and back to the room by 21.00. On the walk today a leech had got me on the foot, didn’t notice it until we got back, no itch.
Author on the canopy walk
Stripe-throated Bulbul
19/4
Up 6.00 and crossed river, walked to Lupak Sampan and beyond, turned back at 11.00 and arrived back at 14.00, copped a few leeches, had a swim on the way back, snuck up on a kingfisher in the water, got quite close. Crested Fireback, Wreathed Hornbill. Rufous-crowned Babbler, Black and Red Broadbill, Hairy-backed Bulbul, Spectacled Bulbul, Cream-vented Bulbul, Red-eyed Bulbul, Blue-banded Kingfisher, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Abbot’s Babbler, Chestnut-winged Babbler, Black Magpie, Orange-bellied Flowerpecker, Malaysian Blue Flycatcher, White-crowned Forktail, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo. Had a nap after lunch then went to the swamp and forest loop, and added Banded Cuckoo-shrike, Yellow-bellied Prinia, White-bellied Woodpecker. Had a storm come through at 14.00 and some light rain at 18.00.
Cicada
Twin-barred Flying Snake
20/4
Up early again and had fruit pancakes, then caught the ferry across with the one we’ve dubbed happy face, because no matter how early we wake him up he’s up and smiling in seconds, and we’re across the river in minutes. Started out along the boardwalk then up the hill and to the swimming spot via the short cut, it wasn’t as hot today, but there were fewer birds around. Greater Coucal, Great Hornbill, Large Green Pigeon, Arctic Warbler, Dark-throated Oriole, Crimson-breasted Flowerpecker, Lesser Green Leafbird, Moustached Babbler, Plaintive Cuckoo, Little Spiderhunter. Back and had sweet and sour fish which was an entire fish. Had our now usual zizz in the heat of the arvo and back over at 16.30. Did a different forest loop that brought us back near the swimming spot again via a ridge. Got Banded Kingfisher, White-bellied Yuhina, Slaty-backed Woodpecker, Chestnut-backed Scimitar-babbler. Met up with a pair of British birders who had seen Straw-headed Bulbul, which is still on my want to see list. We looked for a supposed owl in the resort with them, but found nothing. Had dinner at smiley face’s place, bit slow especially with breakfast, which each night we take with us, since when we get up in the morning everyone is still asleep. 21.30 shower, bed.
Trawling the boardwalk
Banded Kingfisher
21/4
Up early and walked to the remnant rainforest on our side of the river, but saw nothing new. In the village we did spot an Asian Palm Swift. Got smiley face to take us down to the boat rather than drag our bags again, and left at 9.00. I sat in the front this time. Osprey, Rhinoceros Hornbill, Crested Goshawk. Had a very ordinary noodle lunch opposite the bus stop, then a small bus back to Kuala Lumpur, and train back to Smathi’s mum’s place. I went to a mall with a dash through some rain and got a strap that will hopefully keep my suitcase together. Since I arrived Smathi has had a cold and a cough with a fever, so it’s been a bit of a struggle for him. Went to a large mall where we got a mag light to do some spotlighting with. After a lot of milling around in indecision we settled on Plan B restaurant for dinner, I had a Vietnamese soup, pho bo, not too bad at all. Bed 23.00
22/4
Up 5.00 and hit the road in the Volvo, the gps did its usual thing and took us the long way through the back roads to Fraser’s Hill. We stopped at The Gap and walked up the hill a bit. Checked in to Puncak Inn, bigger older room, 2 single beds no a/c but up in the hills it isn’t necessary. Had a late breaky of rice wrapped in an omelette, bit spicy for breaky. Went to the Telekom loop, had a storm come through at 14.30, but only light intermittent rain, so we kept on birding. On a corner an old lady flagged us down and asked for a lift up the hill, once in the car she begged for money to call her son. I stopped the car and said that we were going the other way to the way she wanted; thankfully she got out without a fuss. Kept on going up the road a bit, when we stopped we were in the middle of an amazing feeding group of 21 species that we could identify, they kept on milling around us for 20min before moving on. The days new species: Collared Owlet, Silver-rumped Needletail, Fire-tufted Barbet, Black-browed Barbet, Speckled Piculet, Long-tailed Broadbill, Striated Swallow, Javan Cuckoo-shrike, Grey-throated Minivet, Blue-winged Leafbird, Black-crested Bulbul, Ashy Bulbul, Ochraceous Bulbul, Mountain Bulbul, Lesser Raquet-tailed Drongo, Blue Nuthatch, Golden Babbler, Grey-throated Babbler, Black Laughingthrush, Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush, White-browed Shrike Babbler, Black-eared Shrike Babbler, Blue-winged Minla, Mountain Fulvetta, Long-tailed Sibia, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Mountain Leaf-warbler, Verditer Flycatcher, Black-throated Sunbird, Striated Spiderhunter, Everett’s White-eye, Malayan Hill Partridge, Long-billed Partridge, Rufous-browed Flycatcher, Dark-throated Oriole.
Our hotel Frazer’s Hill
23/4
Up 7.00, as the light came up we walked the Bishop’s trail, came back for breaky at 10.00 at the hotel, everything was a bit cold but still okay. We walked Hemnant trail, and then Pine’s trail, and finally a look at Allan’s water. The Pine’s and Allan’s water added nothing new. Bishop’s added Buff-breasted Babbler, Red-headed Trogon, and at the end we got silver-eared Mesia. Along the road we got Green Magpie and Malaysian Laughingthrush. We then did the Telekom loop again and added Oriental Cuckoo, bit birded out so went back to room. No power, then were told that they were going to do mozzie fogging and we had to vacate our room. Had dinner at the Scott’s restaurant, nice meal. Went out to the Silver Pine’s hotel to look for owls, but saw nothing.
Green Magpie ( photo by Smathi)
Malay Lacewing Butterfly (photo by Smathi)
Impressed Tortoise (photo by Smathi)
24/4
Up 6.00 and down the hill, stopped a few times, but didn’t see much, only Slaty-backed Forktail a few times, got really nice looks at it and Chestnut-capped Forktail. drove to KL. The only problem we had with the old Volvo was it had no reverse gear when it was cold, so had to be careful when parking. Had a shower, packed and got a taxi to the airport, took 1hr and cost 80rm, checked in to our flight and had Maca’s 35rm for 2 double cheeseburgers, chickenburger, 2 medium drinks, 2 small chips, just like Aussie. At Don Muang airport Bangkok we had a long wait to get a car since we hadn’t booked one. National Car Rental 9720baht (A$1=30baht) for 6 days with gps, a brand new Nissan Almera. It was getting dark and peak hour as we got on the road. Thankfully it was a tollway through Bangkok and then fwy all the way to Petchaburi about 200k to the south so we had no traffic problems. After a bit of looking around we found the Sun Hotel, just off the main road 850b for a large clean room, ate at a small place next door, had a yummy pork and rice and a nice cool strawberry smoothie. White-vented Myna was the only bird seen.
25/4
Up 6.00 an extensive breaky with a wide variety of foods was what we stuffed ourselves full on, which would end up me rating this place as probably the best value hotel I’ve stayed at, the only downer was that we were on the second floor with no lifts. Went down to Lam Pak Bia and worked our way up the coast, we couldn’t access the spit, but had a look at the Thale wader site and surrounds, stopped a few times by paddyfields on the way up to Kaen Krachan, arriving there at 14.30. had a look around the wetland and river at the base of the dam wall. Went to Ban Song Nok and spent time in the birdhide till 18.00, had a nice dinner, they really know how to do pork here. So we start the Thai bird list with: Magpie Robin, Red Turtle-dove, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Indian Shag, Little Cormorant, Rock Dove, Striated Heron, Chinese Pond Heron, Javan Pond Heron, Cattle Egret, Great Egret, Intermediate Egret, Little Egret, Black Bittern, Painted Stork, Asian Openbill, Brahminy Kite, Ruddy-breasted Crake, Red-wattled Lapwing, Kentish Plover, Red-necked Stint, Long-toed Stint, Common Redshank, Greenshank, Marsh Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, Broad-billed Sandpiper, Oriental Pratincole, Black-winged Stilt. Little Tern, Whiskered Tern, White-winged Black Tern, Zebra Dove, Spotted Dove, Asian Koel, Greater Coucal, White-throated Kingfisher, Collared Kingfisher, Green Bee-eater, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Indian Roller, Asian Palm Swift, Pacific Swallow, Barn Swallow, Ashy Woodswallow, Oriental Skylark, Paddyfield Pippit, Streak-eared Bulbul, Black Drongo, Racket-tailed Treepie, Great Reed-warbler, Asian Golden Weaver, Baya Weaver, Brown Shrike, Asian Pied Starling, Common Myna, Scaly-breasted Munia, all at Lam Pak Bia. Besra, White-breasted Water-hen, Scaly-breasted Partridge, Hoopoe, Hair-crested Drongo, Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush, Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush, Puff-throated Babbler, Siberian Blue Robin, White-rumped Shama, Hill Blue Flycatcher, Pied Fantail at Kaen Krachan.
Blue-throated Bee-eater
Asian Openbill
26/4
Up 5.30 American breaky, okay. Piak came at 6.00 and we headed up the mountain in his new looking Hilux. We’d Stop and walk along the road with him, then he’d walk back to the car and pick us up and drive to another spot, doing this all the way to lunch at the top where I dozed off, then repeated the procedure back down the mountain. He was pretty good, knew his birds, and had a few staked out, getting most of them. Back to the room at 19.00, an exhausting day. had dinner at the room, chicken, also very nice, watched a dvd of some of the more spectacular birds to visit the hide, bed early. Added Kalij Pheasant, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Crested Serpent Eagle, Oriental Hobby, Grey Peacock Pheasant(h), Thick-billed Pigeon, Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Emerald Dove, Chestnut-winged Cuckoo, Vernal Hanging Parrot, Drongo Cuckoo, Green-billed Malkoha, White-fronted Scops-owl, Brown Wood Owl, Large-tailed Nightjar, Black-capped Kingfisher, Banded Kingfisher, Black-backed Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher, Red-bearded Bee-eater, Oriental Pied Hornbill, Great Hornbill, Wreathed Hornbill, Great Barbet, Green-eared Barbet, Blue-throated Barbet, Blue-eared Barbet, Moustached Barbet, Greater Flameback, Greater Yellownape, Rufous Woodpecker, Grey and Buff Woodpecker, Long-tailed Broadbill, Banded Broadbill, Silver-breasted Broadbill, Blue-winged Pitta, Fork-tailed Swift, Forest Wagtail, Black-winged Cuckoo-shrike, Common Iora, Blue-winged Leafbird, Asian Fairy Bluebird, Black-crested Bulbul, Puff-throated Bulbul, Buff-vented Bulbul, Ashy Bulbul, Flavescent Bulbul, Bronzed Drongo, Ratchet-tailed Treepie, Grey Treepie, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Buff-breasted Babbler, White-browed Scimitar Babbler, Pin-striped Tit-babbler, White-hooded Babbler, White-crowned Laughingthrush, Black-throated Laughingthrush(h), Brown Fulvetta, White-browed Shrike-babbler, Yellow-bellied Warbler, Two-barred Warbler, Mugimaki Flycatcher, Grey-headed Flycatcher, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Black-naped Monarch, Tiger Shrike, Black-throated Sunbird, Streaked Spiderhunter, Spectacled Spiderhunter, Scarlet-backed Sunbird, White-rumped Munia.
Great Hornbill
Asian Fairy Bluebird
Forest Dragon (photo by Smathi)
27/4
Up 5.15, another American Breakfast, Piak turned up and we headed off. We stayed in the lowlands with the same procedure as yesterday. We had some light rain at lunch which we had at the HQ, a long wait for rather ordinary fried rice. Being a Saturday there were heaps of people everywhere. At 14.00 a large thunderstorm came through which lasted 1½ hours, we got a bit more birding in then the rain set in and we left the park early, back to the room at 18.00. A nice omelette and seaweed soup shower and bed early. I got bitten by something on the shoulder today, I didn’t feel it, but it’s all swollen. Added Crested Goshawk, Black Eagle, Black-thighed Falconet, Greater Flameback, Common Flameback, Crimson-winged Woodpecker, Grey-headed Woodpecker, Streak-breasted Woodpecker, Great Slaty Woodpecker, Hodgson’s Hawk Cuckoo, Banded Bay Cuckoo, Large Hawk Cuckoo, Chestnut-breasted Malkoha, Asian Barred Owlet, Orange-breasted Trogon (sitting on nest at eye level with a ring of photographers around it), Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Dollarbird, Dusky Broadbill, Black and Red Broadbill, Banded Broadbill, Hooded Pitta, Scarlet Minivet, Great Iora, Lesser Green Leafbird, Stripe-throated Babbler, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Green Magpie, Sultan Tit, Rufous-fronted Babbler, Pale-legged Leaf-warbler, Asian Brown Flycatcher, Hill Myna, Golden-crested Myna, Crimson Sunbird, Olive-backed Sunbird.
Common Rose Butterfly
Tree Yellow, Mottled Migrant, Chocolate Grass Yellow, Rustic.
Orange-breasted Trogon
Common Cruiser, Orange Gull, Common Gull, Common Hedge Blue, Purple Line Blue, Straight Pierrot and others.
Tail-less Lined Blue and Straight Pierrot Butterflies (photo by Smathi)
Dusky Languor/Leaf-monkey
Common Jay, Red-spot Sawtooth, Burmese Raven Common Mormon, Common Hedge Blue and others.
The muddy puddles that the butterflies swarmed around
Striped Albatross, Common Gull, Three Spot Grass Yellow, Hill Grass Yellow, Common Grass Yellow, Common Jay and others.
28/4
A bit more of a leisurely start today, left at 6.30 on our own and headed in to the forest, it seemed quieter, we parked the car before the first crossing and walked until 11.00 then returned to the visitor centre for lunch of noodles, and a can of fizzy lemon tea, then slowly drove out. The track is used as a highway by thousands of butterflies, they gather around the muddy edges of the streams in a mass of colour. The rain came at 14.00 with some mighty claps of thunder, spent a bit of time in the hide in the rain; there were still some birds around it. Another nice dinner and bed. Added Brown Hornbill, Black-hooded Oriole, Brown Needletail, Crimson-backed Flowerpecker, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, Ruby-cheeked Sunbird.
29/4
Slept in a bit more this morning, sandwiches again then headed out, turned left at the crossroads, and went to the Lung Sin hide, didn’t see much, found a track leading in to the hills across farmland, but it petered out before it got there, met some locals that Smathi said wanted us to come visit them, but we decided not to go. Ended up at another entrance to the National Park, we got a few birds around the entrance and got permission to walk down the road some, but all the gullies were turned to farmland, we still managed to add a few more birds. On the way back we stopped at the hide again, but it was even quieter. Stopped at a village near the HQ for lunch and found a track leading down to the dam which we walked the shore of and proved quite productive, by now it was getting very hot. As we got back to the car we had some light rain, drove back in late arvo, and had a look at a reservoir which added a few more birds, back at 16.00. Loafed around until dinner. At the house hide we had an owl come in, but I moved and it flew off, thankfully it came back and Smathi got to see it. Added Black Bittern, Purple Heron, Cinnamon Bittern, Black-crowned Night Heron, Little Ringed Plover, Pintail Snipe, Red-rumped Swallow, Sooty-headed Bulbul, Black-naped Oriole, Yellow-eyed Babbler, Radde’s Warbler, Arctic Warbler, Grey-breasted Prinia, Collared Scops Owl, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta, Brown-throated Sunbird, Plain-backed Sparrow.
Thai Red Flat Millepede ( photo by Smathi)
Barn Swallows
Bankok Railway Station
30/4
Up 6.30, shower and breaky and hit the road, checked out the gate at the HQ then the lake, went to Don Hoi Lod to look for waders and in the mangroves. Saw some locals looking for Razor Clams. To Phuttamonthon gardens and managed an owlet, and back through the streets of Bangkok to the railway station where we handed back the car with no dents. Moseyed around the streets, bought a few snacks at the station bakery, and got on the train to Chang Mai, it left on time. The seats were okay, in the middle of the train in the middle of the carriage for quietness, on the lower level, which are wider and have a window. The dinner was good, the only thing I didn’t like was the toilet which is just a hole over the tracks, bit primitive. Spotted Owlet, Ruddy-breasted Crake, Japanese Sparrowhawk, Bronze-winged Jacana, Collared Starling, Greenshank, Spotted Redshank, Lesser Sand-plover, Lineated Barbet (h), Common Moorhen, Large Scimitar Babbler(h) Golden-bellied Babbler(h), Pacific Golden Plover.
Spotted Owlet (photo by Smathi)
1/5
Slept okay on t
he train, breaky was a bit ordinary with the worst toast, it was hardly browned no margarine and a small tub of marmalade. The train was only a bit late, picked up the car that we
had organized to be at the station, a Toyota Vios, a bit smaller than the Nissan with 130,00km but drove okay, for this leg we decided to go with a map rather than a gps since the roads around Chang Mai are simpler. Headed south on a hot hazy morning with no wind. There was a long queue to get in to Doi Inthanon. Most people stayed low around the waterfalls. In the village near Mr Daeng’s we had lunch, after a simple meal the lady came out with a plate of cicadas and beetles, she had some for her lunch and then offered us some, I tried one, it was a crunchy tasteless fatty thing, I didn’t screw up my face, so she unloaded about 15 onto my plate, Smathi had 2, so as not to offend the woman I ate the rest. I was picking insect wing and leg bits out of my teeth for ages afterwards. Checked in to Mr Daeng’s, then heard there was a thrush up the mountain, so rushed up there, found it immediately and a few other birds, went up to the boardwalk and met some Canadian birders also staying at Mr Daeng’s. We all went to the Black Crake site, but only heard it, then had dinner together. Rufous-throated Partridge, Black-tailed Crake (h), Chestnut-tailed Minla, Rufous-winged Fulvetta, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Golden-throated Barbet, Black-headed Sibia, Hill Prinia, White-browed Shortwing, Chestnut-bellied Rock-thrush, Siberian Thrush, Blue Whistling Thrush, Verditer Flycatcher, Yellow-bellied Flycatcher, Green-tailed Sunbird.
2/5
Up 5.30 breaky at 6.00 with the Canadians, headed up to the summit with a couple of stops on the way to look at a few birds. We spent 1½ hrs along the trails, as we approached the car we saw that the left rear door was open, my heart went racing, amazingly nothing was taken, my scope, back-pack, camera, passport, all there. It took a while for the adrenaline to subside. Went down to the jeep track at 37.5k and a slow walk out, on the way back we had a very difficult, frustrating feeding group, then two wonderful ones with 30-40 birds and a good mix of species. had lunch at Mr Daeng’s and a nap then went to the waterfall at Siri Phum, and back to the crake site, dinner, the usual bird list call and to sleep on the rather uncomfortable thin mattress. Today’s new ones: Yellow-browed Tit, Yellow-cheeked Tit, Striated Bulbul, Little Pied Flycatcher, Rufescent Prinia, White-tailed Leaf-warbler, White-throated Fantail, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Slaty-bellied Tesia, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Blue-winged Minla, Silver-eared Mesia, Chestnut-fronted Shrike-babbler, Large Niltava, White-bellied Yuhina/Epornis, Golden Babbler, Chestnut-vented Nuthatch, Brown-throated Treecreeper, Maroon Oriole, Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo, Grey-chinned Minivet, Slaty-backed Forktail, Pied Bushchat, Scarlet Minivet.
waiting for a bird…any bird
Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush (photo by Smathi)
3/5
Large thunderstorm overnight, usual routine in the morn and headed up to the jeep track at 33.5k, just up the track the first bird was a Green Cochoa, then the birding got tough, there were lots of birds around, but they remained out of sight, we came to a pine forest and the birding improved, we went up the hill and found a pair of cochoas just near the gate, went back to the junction and went down the hill to the left where we came across a feeding group, we spent a long time around the intersection, then back to the car, with again the birds not being well sighted in this area. Went to the jeep track at 37.5k, then HQ for lunch, servings were a bit small, but cheap. Went down the hill to the waterfalls as far as 12.5k. We got there a bit too early so loafed around til 17.30 when a few birds showed themselves. Back to Mr Daeng’s to find the power was out, apparently the thunderstorm we’d just driven through had put a tree across the powerlines somewhere, it was out for 1½ hrs during which we had our dinner cooked with gas and eaten by candlelight. Green Cochoa, Yellow-bellied Warbler, Rufous-backed Sibia, Short-billed Minivet, Grey-headed Flycatcher, Grey-capped Woodpecker, Buff-bellied Flowerpecker, Arctic Warbler, Golden Babbler, Black Bulbul, Grey-throated Babbler, White-rumped Munia, Hodgson’s Hawk Cuckoo, Blue Magpie, Mountain Bulbul, Black-headed Bulbul, Shikra, Black-backed Forktail, Grey-eyed Bulbul.
Green Cochoa
4/5
The rain stopped during the night, but in the early morning there was another thunderstorm which didn’t abate til 7.30, so had no power or water, so had a sleep in. The storm had hailstones in it which had ripped the leaves from trees and left banks of hailstones well in to the day. Went to the 37.5k jeep tk, the leeches were more abundant than the birds, but still managed a few new ones, went up to the summit to look for the leaf-warbler we’d missed before, but still couldn’t find it, had lunch at the site where we’d got the thrush on the first day, then went to Mae Pan waterfall where we added a few more birds, the clouds looked threatening again, but we got back safely. Eyebrowed Wren-babbler, Red-headed Trogon, Puff-throated Babbler, White-tailed Robin, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Grey Bushchat, Lesser Shortwing, Striated Bulbul.
Doi Inthanon summit walk
Forest Dragon
5/5
No rain overnight, headed down the mountain early to 13k area, and walked up the steep track, at first there was nothing, but one by one we started adding birds, and stayed for 2hrs. Had a look at the parakeet site, added a few more birds there but the parakeets had gone. Drove past Chang Mai to Deep Stream village and had lunch at a royal project. Bought a wallet with Hmung designs on it for Bev. Drove to Fang. Petrol was about A$1.25cpl. Booked in to Khungyew hotel next to the petrol station and market, we had to lug our suitcases up to the first floor. None of the hotels we’ve stayed in have had lifts, I guess for this level of hotel they’re too expensive to put in and maintain. We went for an exploratory trip up the Doi Lang, the mud map we’d got was helpful, we drove about 30k and got in to some good secondary forest and found a few new birds. With the threat of rain and darkness upon us we headed back. Had dinner in the Yuman Chinese restaurant, had black chicken, vegetable and egg roll with sausage meat. Bought some stuff for lunch tomorrow since there are no stores up the mountain. Large-billed Crow, Eurasian Jay, Collared Falconet, Golden-fronted Leafbird, Black-headed Woodpecker, Large Cuckoo-shrike, Crow-billed Drongo, Plain Prinia, Zitting Cisticola, Bright-headed Cisticola (in Aust known as Golden-headed), Lineated Barbet, Oriental Turtle-dove, Orange-bellied Leafbird, Spectacled Barwing.
Striated Swallows (photo by Smathi)
Garden Lizard
6/5
Up at dawn, a meagre breaky of toast that needed to go through the toaster twice to get any colour, and they only have white bread here, and some orange juice, supplemented by a custard dumpling we bought. Headed up the new road to Doi Lang again and were soon getting new birds. As the birding started to get sparser we came to a tree across the road, with some effort we managed to move it enough to get the car past, but only got a few kilometres further before we were stopped at an army checkpoint and told we could go no further, worse was that the checkpoints on the other side of the mountain were also closed, so we’ll never get to the top, foiled! Here, we are right up against the Burmese border, and occasionally things flair up and they close the mountain, we were just unlucky to arrive at one of those times. We slowly drove back, but didn’t get anything new, checked out Doi Pha Hompok NP but it wasn’t worth paying the fee to get in. So went back to the hotel, had a look around the market and bought some sweet pork to put in our bread for lunch also a pancake with fresh shredded coconut a sort of cream egg and sugar, quite nice, washed down with fresh squeezed sugar cane which was mediocre. Rested for the arvo and didn’t venture out til 19.00 for a nice fried rice with raw local vegies on the side. Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, Grey-headed Parrotbill, Ashy Drongo, Dark-sided Flycatcher.
7/5
up 4.45 after toast drove south to Doi Ang Kang, a very steep rise up through the clouds at dawn was quite spectacular. We got one of my main target birds at the guard post on arrival it was too easy. We messed around a bit trying to find the forest trail and couldn’t find it, we walked the 21k track and added a few birds and leeches, went to Bang Koom village for lunch, part of which was some pickled local garlic, quite nice, bought a bag of mixed dried fruit, then walked the farm trail, adding 2 more species, one being the cuckoo, Smathi had seen it earlier on the trip, so pointed it out to me and let me identify it, I couldn’t, I was expecting it to be Horsefield’s Bronze size, after a few hints It dawned on me. We got some info from the locals and went back and found the Mae Per forest trail, adding more species getting a hard to see laughingthrush as the last bird of the day. Had a look along the road past the Chinese cemetery, but added nothing new. Back to Fang and ate near the hotel and had one of the best meals of the trip for 340b including a fish maw in a delicious dressing of 1 part fish sauce, 1 part fresh lime juice, ½ part palm sugar ( I asked the lady for her recipe), a sweet and sour pork and a hoijor (a pork and shrimp type wonton), as an after Smathi got a pickled cabbage, which I tried but it had ginger and chilli, neither of which agree with my palate. Red-faced Liocichla, Brown-breasted Bulbul, Red-whiskered Bulbul, Violet Cuckoo, Japanese White-eye, White-necked Laughingthrush, White-browed Laughingthrush, Striated Yuhina.
Bang Koom village
Paris Peacock
8/5
Up at 5.30 for the mundane toast and juice and headed up the new track to Doi Lang, knowing we couldn’t go far we stopped a lot more and started low down, nearly every stop produced a new bird including several stunners it was 11.30 when we got to the checkpoint, it was still closed, but we’d had some morning, we remarked several times how lucky we were being, and then we’d find another special bird. Went back to Doi Pha Hompak NP, added a few birds whilst we had a nice lunch in the gardens by the pond, then went and sat in the hot pools. Had a strawberry smoothie, Smathi had one with syrup, mine had milk, the store girl had a taste but didn’t like it because it wasn’t sweet. Back to the room at 16.30. Dinner was a small place around the corner cheap but okay. Asian Emerald Cuckoo, Mrs Hume’s Pheasant, Mountain Bamboo Partridge, Himalayan Cutia, Slender-billed Oriole, Giant Nuthatch, Thick-billed Flowerpecker, Long-tailed Minivet, Yellow-vented Flowerpecker, White-headed Bulbul, Plain Flowerpecker, Rufous-fronted Babbler, Stripe-breasted Woodpecker, Lesser Yellownape,
9/5
Up 6.30 usual toast and juice, then the drive back to Chang Mai. We had trouble getting in to the airport as the obvious road in from the north is military only, so had to go through town, dropped off the car, again with no dents, and walked in to the local shopping centre for lunch of Koay Chap a noodle, pork, liver and blood soup which was okay, desert was a half pancake half dumpling khanom krok and a bael juice which was mostly ice. Bought a Thai silk scarf for Bev, walked to the old SW wall of the city, got a red taxi back to the airport and lounged around until our respective flights. Only one new bird today Crested Treeswift.
Old city walls Chang Mai
Heard only Malaysia: Indian Cuckoo, Gold-whiskered Barbet, Yellow-crowed Barbet, Rusty-naped Pitta, Great Argus, Drongo Cuckoo, Blue-eared Barbet, Red-throated Barbet, Sooty-capped Babbler, Large-tailed Nightjar, Collared Owlet
Heard only Thailand: Indian Cuckoo, Collared Owlet, Blue Pitta, Rusty-naped Pitta, Large Scimitar Babbler, Grey Peacock-pheasant, Crested Jay, Abbot’s Babbler, Large-tailed Nightjar, Plaintive Cuckoo, Golden-bellied Gerygone, Ashy Tailorbird, Black-tailed Crake.
Mammals from trip: Common Tree-shrew, Northern Tree-shrew, White-thighed Languor, Banded Languor, Dusky Languor, Long-tailed Macaque, White-handed Gibbon, Siamang Gibbon (h), Yellow-throated Martin, Eurasian Wild Pig, Lesser Mouse-deer, Red Muntjac, Black Giant Squirrel, Cream-coloured Giant Squirrel, Plantan Ground-squirrel, Grey-bellied Ground-squirrel, Variable Ground-squirrel, Western Striped Ground-squirrel, Indochinese Ground-squirrel.
If you would like to contribute the the well being of this world, our world, your world, an easy and effective way to do it is to join a quality environmental group. There are many spread across the world all plugging away trying to make the world a better place for wildlife. We belong to Birdlife Australia, Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) and Australian Wildlife Conservancy (AWC). Locally the Malaysian Nature Society and the Bird Conservation Society of Thailand are worth looking at. You can donate your time and or money to these and many others knowing that the world will be a slightly better place because of your effort.